What it's all about...

Exploring Natural Places in the Southeastern United States, Uncovering Hidden Histories, and Examining Local Mysteries

Monday, November 23, 2020

The Old Roads

The Old Roads

Travel the modern highways of the mid-Atlantic states today and you're surely traveling a route with a long history. 


 Native American Roads; traveled for 12,000 years.

Just to highlight two of the native roads:

Catawba Trail

This mountain road connected natives from the Carolina's with those to the north and west, in what are now the states of Tennessee, Virginia, West Virginia, Kentucky, Pennsylvania, Indiana, and Ohio.


Occaneechi Path, The Great Trading Path

This system of footpaths between the villages of the piedmont plateau got several upgrades. First, the footpath became a horse trail as the Sioux began establishing trade with European settlers in Virginia. The Sioux traded skins and furs for tools, woven cloth, blankets, and weapons. In the next hundred years Europeans settled the piedmont and the road was upgraded to a wagon road. 


Colonial Roads; connecting the English colonies.




1650's The King's Highway

King Charles II ordered a road built to connect the colonies in the 'New World'. Built from 1650 to 1735, it stretched 1,300 miles beginning in Boston and heading south to Charleston. This connected two extremely important ports by land. (Important to the aid of English trade, which was the true purpose of the colonies.) Other towns along the road also benefited from the infrastructure improvement.  Today, if you want to travel the route of the old road highway 17 along the mid-Atlantic coast follows along the route from Virginia south. There are many historic places to visit along the way and of course some of North America's best beaches. I'm sure there are other spots to see the actual old road, but I walked part of its route in Little River South Carolina. Click HERE to read about that trip.


1750's The Fall Line Road

This road split off of the King's Highway in Fredericksburg, Virginia and headed south along the mid-Atlantic fall line, all the way to Augusta, Georgia. The fall line is an elevation change between coastal plane and piedmont plateau where rivers often have rapids and falls making them impassible by water past that point. Click HERE for more about the geology of the area. Today US highway 1 travels this route.


The Upper Road

This road paralleled the Fall Line road but to the west, and is the only one of the colonial roads which does not have a current road following its path.


The Great Wagon Road

Formerly the Native American road called the Warrior's Path. The Great Wagon Road ran from Pennsylvania to coast of Georgia.


Early American Roads, a work in progress.

1850's The Plank Roads

The longest of these roads stretched from Fayetteville to Winston. 129 miles.

The Cape Fear River was an extremely important access point for trade in North Carolina. The river was navigable from its mouth at the Atlantic up to its headwaters near Fayetteville. The town was intended to be a hub for transportation and shipping because of its proximity to the Cape Fear. (Click HERE for more on the Cape Fear.) In the 1850's roads were being built all over the state as part of an infrastructure project supported by the Whig party. As many as 500 plank roads were constructed. 



1900's Driving Dangerously

By the turn of the century cars were sharing the roads with wagons, horseback riders, and those walking, with no speed limits or stop signs or rules of any kind. With the boom of the industrial revolution there was need for more roads than ever to transport workers and goods in and out of cities.


Macadam Roads

After the Civil War the south had its version of the dark ages, not much in he way of improvement happened for some time. The plank roads fell into disrepair, the dirt roads were deeply rutted, subject to washouts, and not really suitable for travel in early automobiles. After 20 years the road system needed to be repaired. In the 1880's macadam roads began to be built. By 1912 NC had 1,232 miles of macadam roads. However, the roads were expensive to produce and by the Great Depression there was just a few hundred miles left. Most roads were hard packed clay or sand.


Asphalt and the modern Highway system

After WWII the boom years saw investment in all types of infrastructure. Roads were paved with asphalt. The federal government created the highway act and black top stretched from shore to shore.

Saturday, November 21, 2020

Castles of the Carolina's

10 Magical, Mysterious, and Inspiring Places!


America's Largest Home

Photo from Explore Ashville


1. The Biltmore Estate

Ashville, NC 
Built 1889-95
Currently offers tours 

Built by George Washington Vanderbilt, the Grandson of shipping and railroad magnet Cornelius “The Commodore” Vanderbilt. The philanthropist employed many locals during the extensive building. Biltmore Village was built for the crew and eventually house and grounds staff to have homes, a church, and other amenities. When completed Biltmore became the largest private home in the United States.
Click HERE for more about the Vanderbilt family.


Overlook Castle, or Occult Castle?


Photo from Wikipedia 


2. Seeley's Castle

Outside of Ashville, NC
Built in 1912
Currently Privately Owned

The current owners installed security systems, fencing, and gates. After they purchased the estate they discovered it had become a hangout for local teenage trespassers, and in need of not only repair but fortifications to keep out curious teens. Local legend would have you believe this was and still is a cult castle. Home to a secretive religious sect. 


Mansion Murder Mystery




3. Greenville Castle

Greenville, SC 
Built in 1902
Currently Privately Owned

Built for a German baroness now owned by a 30 something Greenville native who started a multi million dollar clothing line for preppy southern frat boy types. In 2016 he shot a man dead on the property, so trespassing is highly discouraged.



Gold Refinery



4. Castle McCulloch

Jamestown, NC
Built in the 1830's, restored in the 1980's
Currently an event venue

For decades the gothic stone ruins sat deteriorating in the woods, occasionally visited by trespassing teenagers or kids playing dungeons and dragons. One of those kids eventually bought and restored the castle which now hosts events ranging from weddings to raves.
Click HERE for more about Castel McCulloch



The Order of Gimghoul and the tales of Peter Dromgoole


Photo from UNC.edu


5. Gimghoul Castle

Chapel Hill, NC
Built in the 1920's
Currently Privately Owned

UNC Chapel Hill has lots of history as our oldest public university, and this castle and its woods are the setting for mysterious tales of a man named Peter Dromgoole who may have murdered his girlfriend there or disappeared himself or was maybe murdered, who really knows but the Carolina couple haunts the area. The castle was home to a secret society of scholars from the graduate school, and apparently there’s a stone that bleeds.



Covid closed Event Venue


6. Barclay Villa

Angier, NC
Built in the 1830's
Currently Privately Owned 

The Barclays family built this amazing home in the 1830s and it’s been beautiful kept and lovingly restored to modern luxury standards. A private residence, the property was offering event rentals but has stopped because of the COVID-19 pandemic, offering no refunds for cancellations.



Medieval LARPing Playground 



7. Eastwind Castle

Trenton, SC
Built in 2005
Currently an Event Venue

The only modern structure on the list, this replica castle tower is part of a live action role playing set where you can live out your castle fantasies and save the damsel or slay the dragon! Not exactly a real castle but worth the mention.




Beachside Castle 


8. Atalaya

Huntington Beach, SC
Built in 1931
Currently tours available.

One of my personal favorites, this castle is beside the beach and in the middle of a state park with tons of camping! The structure was built as a southern home for New York sculpture and poet Anna and Archer Huntington during the Great Depression employing many locals.



Church, Fort, Private home, Rentable Paradise

From Sullivan Island's Magazine 

9. Castle Mugdock

Sullivan's Island, SC
Built in 1891
Currently available for monthly rentals

This place has seen it all, it began life as a church only to be commandeered by the military during war time for use as a fort. Eventually it became a private home and now is a bucket list vacation rental! Charleston Castle for a month, yes please!



Ruins in the middle of Charleston Harbor



10. Castle Pinckney 

Charleston, SC
Built in 1810
Currently only accessible by water

This is the only one on the list that was always a structure used for military purpose. Like medieval castles it had a large rounded buttress, with small windows and ramparts on top. Today it is being over taken by nature and only accessible by boat.

Saturday, November 7, 2020

America's Oldest Mountains

'There's Gold In Them There Hills!'

The Hidden History of Oldest Mountain Chain in the USA 

Kimsey Farm on Old Mountain looking south.

A few miles outside of my small city is a beautiful rural area. The northernmost features of the Uwharrie Mountain chain are scattered along a section of eastern Davidson and western Randolph counties. These old mountains are called the Caraway Mountains. Their rolling hills begin just south of High Point, and the Uwharrie range extends south into Montgomery county. The unassuming landscape hides a most impressive history. 

There are some subdivisions where families sold off land during the 1970s, 80s, and 90s, but there is also undeveloped acreage of hardwoods; black walnut, sycamore, oak, birch, and dogwood, along with pine trees planted for harvesting. There are fields of tobacco, corn, and soy beans, and occasional cow pastures, too. The hillsides are dotted with old wooden farm houses. The roads were originally built for horses and wagons not automobiles. Some of those old wagon roads lead to my grandfather's farm. 


The 150 year old farm house sits in a valley in northwestern Randolph county North Carolina at the intersection of Fuller Mill and Old Mountain Roads. From north to south Old Mountain begins in the small town of Trinity (original home of Duke University, founded as Trinity College in 1859). Old Mountain Road begins at a roundabout on Finch Farm road and winds around the top and down the incline of an 800 foot slope to a valley and then up the next 800 foot peak. The community on this part of the old mountain chain is called Tabernacle, it is to the west of the town of Thomasville and south of Trinity. Fuller Mill Road follows along the valley west and then north around one of the mountains to Thomasville. To the east it goes toward Caraway and then the pavement loops back north around to Finch Farm Road, named after land owner and Thomasville furniture industry pioneer Thomas Finch. 

The original Fuller Mill Road continues as a rural gravel route through farmland to the site of the three story grist mill on the Little Uwharrie River. There is no longer visible evidence of the structure which once brought farmers from all around the area to mill their wheat. The mill was built by landowner Allen Skeen in 1861.


The surrounding community was called Eden at the time, though little evidence of it remains there were 25 families there by 1880 when Isham Fuller bought into the operation. In 1911 the area to the south of Eden was listed as Fuller's. The Skeen's and Fuller's took turns running the mill over the next century and it remained a working mill until the 1970's.  (Click here for my 'secret' Thomasville burger recipe, called the Skeen burger.) 

Mills were the center of many communities in this area of the piedmont, as early as the 1700's. Unique geological features created spring fed creeks and rivers that had clean water which flowed at a strong enough rate to power large mills. Land owners cleared the area of trees, milling the lumber to build homes, barns, and whatever structures their communities requires. The cleared land was then used for farming. 

In 1799 a boy playing in a creek on his family's farm found a large yellow rock and took it home. The 17 pound gold hunk was used as a doorstop until the boy's unknowledgeable father sold it for a few dollars. After learning the true value of the rock the farmer got some business partners and began prospecting. In 1803 the men (with the help of slaves) found a huge piece of gold weighing 28 pounds. News spread quickly and land owners in the area rushed to set up their own gold operations, mining the surface of the streams and creeks, (known as placer mining). This started off America's first gold rush. Placer mines were exhausted within 20 years and experienced miners from coal and iron industries set up shop to mine the gold from its source; veins deep in the old mountains. To handle the large amount of gold found in the region the first US branch mint was built in Charlotte to specialize in coinage. Previously the gold had to make the dangerous journey all the way north to Philadelphia. Of course the Civil War interrupted all of this but after as things attempted to reconstruct the mint cemented Charlotte as the financial capital of the state. The gold rush was over and the land had been almost completely cleared of lumber, agriculture returned to the area and continued for the next 100 years. President John F. Kennedy made part of the Uwharries a National Forrest though the plan began decades before as the government began promoting reforestation and removal of farmers from the land.  

Both the Caraway's and the Uwharries take their names from native tribes that lived in the area before the European invasion. Tribes which no longer exist. Numerous archeological sites have been found in the old mountains. The same rivers that attracted early settlers had been useful to the native people who artifacts show lived and traded in the area for over 12,000. Many of the roads in the area may have been technically built, cleared, and rutted out by the invading pioneers, but they began as narrow trails through the then heavily forested hills and valleys. Quartz from the mountains were carved into tools and arrow heads and traded across the east. 

All of this interesting history is really but a speck of dust to these old mountains. Their history is on a scale hard for us to even understand. 

Scientific investigation and careful analysis of core samples and the fossil record have lead geologists and biologists to agree that early animal life evolved from one celled organisms approximately 550 million years ago. These earliest critters were simple soft bodied sea creatures. It wasn't until 500 million years ago that animal life diversified. 410 million years ago animals finally slithered out of the water and began to evolve on the land. 65 million years ago just as the continental plates were arriving in their current locations and volcanic and seismic activity was beginning to slow, the earth was impacted by the massive extinction event that killed the dinosaurs, along with 75% of the plant and animal life on the planet. 

These old mountains, the oldest mountains in the United States, predate all of that. The young earth was not the earth we know today. The crust's various plates were not in the positions they are now. The land that was not covered in oceans was barren rock, cooled magma from within the young earth. All life was in the water. There was less oxygen in the atmosphere without the abundant plant life that makes us a green and blue planet. The sky would have been clouded with matter from seismic and volcanic activity that was common as plates shifted. Much of the land we know was then being birthed as the crust moved along on top of the molten layers beneath. 

These mountains are located with in the Carolina Terrane, a geological formation which runs 370 miles from central Georgia to central Virginia and makes up the largest part of the piedmont region. The terrane formed 625 million years ago in an area where tectonic plates met in a subduction zone off the coast of the prehistoric continent geologists call Gondwana. In the area where the plates were pressing together the force caused volcanic activity which built an arc of islands (like Hawaii). 

Today, the old mountains are softly rolling hills that max out just above 1,100 feet in elevation, but in their hay day they towered 20,000 feet above sea level. As millions of years passed tectonic movement pushed the massive volcanic island arc across the ocean where it collided with another continent to help form what is now North America. The Carolina Terrane had a big part in the tectonic evolution of North America's east coast. During the Paleozoic era the mountain chain was no longer islands alone in the ocean; the zone where these mountains met with the younger North American plate was a collision zone that created some of the massive amounts of sediment which would eventually form the coastal plain. 

Volcanic rock from the pre-Cambrian islands makes up the Carolina slate belt, an area within the Carolina Terrane. There is deformation from shear and areas of intrusion which consist of high quality quartz crystals formed by magma flow, from the collisions during the Paleozoic, but many of the hills that make up the Uwharrie Mountains are dark colored green to black metavolcanic rock covered in a layer of red to yellow/gray sediment left there by erosion.

During Earth's early stages meteorites packed with gold and other metals bombarded its oozy surface. While the formation of the planet continued, molten metals sank to its center to make the core. During the seismic shifts of planetary development volcanic eruptions carried these metals back up to the surface where they were then deposited as veins within the newly formed crust. The volcanos that formed our oldest mountains also pushed up veins of molten metals such as gold and silver. Gold deposits within the Carolina slate belt are considered some of the world's oldest.




Oak Hollow Camp Ground

  I haven't blogged in a while, I went down the ancestry research rabbit hole for a while and also have been working on home projects, f...